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A Long Stretch From Tradition:
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Preventing common hair and scalp disorders caused from braids and
weaves. By Diana Dudas G.C.H.S.R.H. |
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My
earliest memories of braids are watching little girls sitting on
their front porch steps being having their hair done by their
elders. Now, this old time tradition has turned in to a multi
million dollar business. Braids have come a long stretch from
tradition and become an elaborate art form. It seems as though,
salons specializing in braids and weaves have popped up almost
over night. This new talent is highly respected. |
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However there are concerns and problems caused by going to a
stylist not specialized in this field making it vital that you find
a well respected hairstylist and insist on a receiving a
consultation before making your appointment. Hair braiding can take
anywhere from three to ten hours, and is therefore costly. So you
need to be sure that this is something for you. |
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Why are consultations important? |
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Whenever you are considering trying a new hair service, or something
that you haven’t done in a while, it is vital to sit down with your
stylist of choice for a consultation.
Once you have decided on a service in this case braids or weaves,
the stylist should discuss the pros and cons of this service along
with telling you how to maintain your new look, and the cost
entailed for both receiving and maintain the new look.
But most essentially during this time, the stylist should be
checking a few vital pieces of information. Such as the hairs
texture, porosity and most importantly the hairs ELASTICITY! Braids
or weaves should never be performed on hair that as poor elasticity. |
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Why is the hairs elasticity so important? |
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Elasticity is in my opinion one of the most important properties of
hair: This is the hairs ability to be able to spring back to its
original shape and length without damage. Wet hair that is in
optimum conditioner can be stretched up to 25% of its length and
return back to its original length when dry. As an experiment, if
you was to hold a piece of hair about two inches long in your
fingers and pull, you would be able to see considerable movement. |
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Hairs elasticity depends mostly on the keratin levels and sulphide
bonds in the cortex of the hair. These can be quite easily damaged
by chemical treatments, such as relaxers, perms, or bleaching. These
chemical services will then create poor elasticity in your hair.
This will limit the amount the hair will be able to stretch. The
hair will also not curl, be weak, fragile and will break easily.
Natural and artificial sunlight will do the same damage. Poor
elasticity can be rectified by the use of good treatment
conditioners that contain wheat, rice and corn proteins. Treatments
containing Keratin protein are also acceptable, however the natural
ability of vegetable proteins to immediately penetrate into the hair
shaft make them a better choice.
You should wait at least two weeks after a chemical service, or
until you get the stylists OK, before considering braids or weaves. |
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Traction Alopecia caused by braids and weaves: |
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Alopecia is a medical term for hair loss. There are various types of
Alopecia such Alopecia Areata (this is normally caused by severe
trauma and causes one to lose hair in small patches on their head,
that can then enlarge and become one). Alopecia Androgenetica
(otherwise known as male of female pattern baldness, which normally
happens as one matures) and Traction Alopecia.
Traction Alopecia is caused by constant stress on the hair follicle,
due to continuous wearing of tight pony tails, hair buns , up-do’s and
most commonly hair braids, such as corn rows, or braids that are now
used for hair weaving techniques.
In order for hair braids to look neat and to last any length of time
without loosening, they need to be put in very tightly. Most
hairstylists specializing in braids or weaves etc. have great
dexterity and strength in their fingers, this is due to having been
braiding from a very young age.
It is important when receiving this service, to let the stylist know
if they are pulling too hard, however it is my experience that
stylists normally insist, that they need to be pull tightly in order
for the braids stay in. If you are having braids as a one off, this is
not too harmful as your hair follicle will be able to withstand the
stress. However if you continue to braid your hair on a regular basis
(every 6 weeks or so) Your hair will eventually pull away from the
follicle, shortening the hairs lifespan. |
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Braids Shorten Your Hairs Lifespan: |
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The
lifespan of an individual hair is on average between 2 and 6 years.
This life span is divided into three stages
ANAGEN which is the first stage, when the new hair grows from the base
of the hair follicle.
CATAGEN during which the hair has now ceased to grow, the root shrinks
and the follicle breaks down, allowing the hair to move upward.
TELOGEN the mature hair is loosely anchored to the hair root, and
after a couple of months the hair will fall out. Hair overly stressed
during braiding can encourage the hair to fall out shortening its
lifespan. |
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Scalp problems caused by braiding wet hair: |
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I
have known stylists to wet or dampen the hair before they braid. This
is because it helps them to section the hair more precisely and makes
hair easier to control and hold in their fingertips. What happens then
is that when pulling the wet hair it will stretch it to its fullest
potential, this will of course depend the condition and elasticity of
the hair. Then as the hair dries it will contract and try to return to
it’s previous length causing great stress on the hair follicle. This
can cause severe headaches a day or two after the appointment. It can
also cause sores to appear on the scalp which in turn can become
infected and very painful. These sores can also be caused by the
stylist being too harsh when using sharp combs or implements during
braiding. |
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Hair Breakage caused by braiding too soon after a chemical service: |
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There
are cases when braids are applied immediately after a chemical
service. This is not acceptable because the hair after a chemical
service does not an optimum moisture level of 8%, is overly porous,
and most importantly, has poor elasticity. Even if the hair does not
break at the time of service, it could break within days or weeks
after the services. |
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Caring for your braids: |
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For
all of the above reasons it is vital that once you have your braids
that you take care of them. Follow the stylists instructions. However
due to the lack of conditioning once your hair is braided ( it is
often recommended that you do not condition for fear of the
conditioner making the hair soft loosening the braids. It is vital
that a month prior and past your appointment that you spend time
giving your hair lots of TLC. This means pampering your hair with
shampoos that will restore your hairs moisture level to its optimum 8%
treatment conditioners that contain vegetable proteins, improving
elasticity. Try and give your hair a treatment at least one a week. |
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Authors Notes: There is no reason at
all that you cannot enjoy the experience of hair braids or weaves, as
long as you take the proper precautions. Go to a well respected
specialist, use good professional hair care products, and ALWAYS GET A
CONSULTATION.
If you have any questions on this article or other hair care
questions, please feel free to email me at dudasdiana@aol.com |
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copyright Ó 2002 |
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